The New Gypsies by Iain McKell††
Fashion and social documentary photographer, Iain McKell has tracked and befriended a ‘small tribe’ of New Gypsies for over ten years. But it is 25 years since he took his first series of photographs of the same tribe, six of which were to remain with him.
Iain McKell’s photographs of this new group of itinerants reveal his
deep-seated attraction to both the people and the lifestyle, and betray
mixed perceptions of a romantic life coupled with a hard one.
His portraits often seem like a character from some ancient mystery play.
Iain McKell’s photography within the context of his own oeuvre, marrying his skills and disciplines of both documentary portraiture and fashion photography and showing the cross over from the gloss of the advertising campaign to the self-initiated documentary project.††
rick owens*
Known for glamour-meets-grunge style, designing rock inspired edgy feminine outfits with sculptural folds. After establishing his own label in 1994, Owens 2002 collection presented at New York’s Fashion Week was personally supported by U.S. Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Owens received the Council of Fashion Designers of America Perry Ellis Emerging Talent Award in 2002, the same year he moved his label to Paris. In 2005, Owens launched a furniture line and a diffusion line called Rick Owens Lilies. Owens also serves as creative director for Paris based fur company Revillon.
By starting chronologically where the film ends, the picture book “Voguing and the House Ballroom Scene of New York City 1989-1992″, offers a different look on the phenomenon, by being temporally set when balls and voguing gains the attention of the mainstream. Madonna’s single “Vogue” hits the charts in 1990.
The book offers three types of photos: the formal studio portraits by Chantal Regnault in a papier glacé look can be seen today as documents for the relativ fame the protagonists of “Paris is Burning” reached, after they confessed in the film they wanted it so much. Journalistic photos taken at balls and casual-but-posed outdoor snapshots portraits gives a conterpoint, a more spontaneous mise-en-scène of the selves.
In addition to the pictures, interviews with protagonists done for the purpose of the book in the last two years gives an often nostalgic look backward. But most interesting is the introduction text by Tim Lawrence, who describes the late 80s Harlem ball scene as part of a 150 years old tradition.
Petra Storrs*
Rejina Pyo*
One of six standout designers chosen by Cathy Edwards from the Central Saint Martins MA show for our Exclusive story, The Masters.
Rejina Pyo’s offering – softly voluminous shapes that floated about the body – was strangely beautiful. The primitive sculpture attached to clothing and carried by models as they walked only added to the proudly idiosyncratic mood.’
Jenny Postle*
Knitwear has always taken a front line position in the history of British fashion. Conducive to sheep farming, the climate and landscape of our fair isle aligns the wooly jumper with the timeless aesthetic of Great Britain. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Jenny Postle has already received well deserved press attention (Vogue ‘The Graduates’ and Another Magazine) for her bizarre and innovative knitwear.
Her pieces infuse carefully selected yarns and fabrics to create a form of patterned patchwork. The results are statement garments with an edge of ethnicity. Check out her complete collection here.
Joost vanderbrug new book: LOST BOYS - a life in tunnels*
The Hunger*
20 years after founding Dazed & Confused, and 10 years after the birth of AnOther, Rankin is launching a new biannual fashion and lifestyle magazine, The Hunger, which celebrates the innate creative drive that we all possess, and that some thrive on and harness to push culture forward.
The magazine launches on 17 November 2011, and the TV website will go live on the same day. This accompanying exhibition opens on November 24th.
Iain McKell’s photography within the context of his own oeuvre, marrying his skills and disciplines of both documentary portraiture and fashion photography and showing the cross over from the gloss of the advertising campaign to the self-initiated documentary project.††
Don Pedro Pablo††
His name is Don Pedro Pablo. With long hair, bushy beard and nail polish this Brooklyn artist collect an obsessive adoration for human grotesques, and a fascination with orifices and hybrid beings. Pedro’s bright green and blue humanoids with misshapen bodies and misplaced genitals enact scenes of sexual and sordid violence in an indeterminate vacuum.
Tomoaki Hata: “The Night Is Still Young”
“The Night Is Still Young” is the title of a photo book by Los Angeles-based, Japanese photographer Tomoaki Hata. The book, which was published in November 2010 and is unfortunately sold out, documents the gay scene of Osaka and especially its drag culture. Here’s a collection of the photographs, I especially like the very intimate and sexy photo series “Ichi and Mi-kun” at the bottom of this post. All pictures courtesy Miyako Yoshinaga art prospects.
Known for glamour-meets-grunge style, designing rock inspired edgy feminine outfits with sculptural folds. After establishing his own label in 1994, Owens 2002 collection presented at New York’s Fashion Week was personally supported by U.S. Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Owens received the Council of Fashion Designers of America Perry Ellis Emerging Talent Award in 2002, the same year he moved his label to Paris. In 2005, Owens launched a furniture line and a diffusion line called Rick Owens Lilies. Owens also serves as creative director for Paris based fur company Revillon.
Voguing and the House Ballroom Scene of New York 1989-92*
For my generation, Ball Culture is something known and experienced through “Paris is Burning”. The famous price winning documentary film portrays the people involved in the scene in the late 80s, the rules of it, but keeps the distance of the anthropologist’s eye.By starting chronologically where the film ends, the picture book “Voguing and the House Ballroom Scene of New York City 1989-1992″, offers a different look on the phenomenon, by being temporally set when balls and voguing gains the attention of the mainstream. Madonna’s single “Vogue” hits the charts in 1990.
The book offers three types of photos: the formal studio portraits by Chantal Regnault in a papier glacé look can be seen today as documents for the relativ fame the protagonists of “Paris is Burning” reached, after they confessed in the film they wanted it so much. Journalistic photos taken at balls and casual-but-posed outdoor snapshots portraits gives a conterpoint, a more spontaneous mise-en-scène of the selves.
In addition to the pictures, interviews with protagonists done for the purpose of the book in the last two years gives an often nostalgic look backward. But most interesting is the introduction text by Tim Lawrence, who describes the late 80s Harlem ball scene as part of a 150 years old tradition.
Petra Storrs*
London-based artist and polymath Petra Storrs defies all artistic genres by assimilating set and prop design, stage costume design, illustration and myriad quirky works of the imagination. Her singular vision led to the unforgettable spectacle of singer Paloma Faith at a London show, whose umbrella-shaped mirror dress reflected the stage and captured headlines. Her originality, and her ability to morph materials such as paper, aluminum and note cards into elaborate props and editorial-ready attire is truly awe-inspiring. Her original paperwork has been featured in fashion editorials the world over; in music videos for zeitgeist-defining acts such as Florence and the Machine, Friendly Fires, Ipso Facto, Patrick Wolf and MGMT—all artists who have fallen for her cutting edge DIY aesthetic. Even in troubled economic waters she refuses to let her creative dreams be sunk by a bunch of drowning fat cats, and reminds us that if there was ever a time to rip up the rule book and start again, this is it
Rejina Pyo*
One of six standout designers chosen by Cathy Edwards from the Central Saint Martins MA show for our Exclusive story, The Masters.
Rejina Pyo’s offering – softly voluminous shapes that floated about the body – was strangely beautiful. The primitive sculpture attached to clothing and carried by models as they walked only added to the proudly idiosyncratic mood.’
Jenny Postle*
Knitwear has always taken a front line position in the history of British fashion. Conducive to sheep farming, the climate and landscape of our fair isle aligns the wooly jumper with the timeless aesthetic of Great Britain. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Jenny Postle has already received well deserved press attention (Vogue ‘The Graduates’ and Another Magazine) for her bizarre and innovative knitwear.
Her pieces infuse carefully selected yarns and fabrics to create a form of patterned patchwork. The results are statement garments with an edge of ethnicity. Check out her complete collection here.
Joost vanderbrug new book: LOST BOYS - a life in tunnels*
London-based director and photographer Joost Vandebrug has shot an incredible new photo book, called 'Lost Boys', a group of kids, that live in a tunnel close to the main train station in Bucharest.
Joost build a close relationship with this boys and slowly got deeper and deeper in their reallity, becaming a silent eye capturing their intimate daily life. A very beautiful and sensible work with the touch of Vandebrug famous for his portraits.
Joost famous for his photographs of Ash Stymest and works like BORED and NEW FACES publicates his new book this month.
You can also buy it directly in his website+++
You can also buy it directly in his website+++
The Hunger*
20 years after founding Dazed & Confused, and 10 years after the birth of AnOther, Rankin is launching a new biannual fashion and lifestyle magazine, The Hunger, which celebrates the innate creative drive that we all possess, and that some thrive on and harness to push culture forward.
The magazine launches on 17 November 2011, and the TV website will go live on the same day. This accompanying exhibition opens on November 24th.
Ziad Ganem, Made in Britain*
Ziad Ghanem has become synonymous with his ‘cult couturier’ tag ever since he launched in London a decade ago. He successfully merges modern silhouettes with haute couture craftsmanship while openly embracing age-old techniques keeping them alive and relevant for today.
A global magpie Ziad readily soaks in inspiration while simultaneously collecting rare vintage fabrics and gems that give his designs historical depth as well as aesthetic appeal. Each and every piece Ziad creates is truly original and it’s on this basis he works with his clients providing a personal and unique service.
Ziad’s shows have rapidly become the hottest ticket on the Fashion Week schedule providing theatre, drama and a bold injection of creativity. His innovative vision has led to many collaborations with a diverse range of businesses, publications and artists. While Ziad’s models too, are selected for their unique attributes and personalities and arrive in a multitude of shapes and sizes.
Ziad’s unique signature style is hopelessly romantic and yet elaborately modern at the same time. His more intricate pieces have been likened to works of art and it’s this distinctive style that has gained the cult couturier a client base that spans the world."
Bodies in Urban Spaces | Choreographer Willi Dorner*
Art director Willi Dorner and photographer Lisa Rastl have collaborated on two project combining humans in odd formations and unsusual location.
both set out to explore the “relationship between body, space and architecture”. the urban based series was created as a set of human sculptures wich were spread throughout the city of vienna.
Groups of dancers, climbers and performers wearing brightly coloured clothes run through busy malls and high streets and cram themselves into doorways, alcoves and any gap they can find in public buildings.
The artist has effectively transformed the human body into form, a complete reversal from the classical convention of creating the human form from material.
During a tour of Austria, England, France, Norway, Sweden, Finland and the US.+++
Savanna Whyat+++
Based in Brooklyn, United States. She studied at Savannah College of Art and Design. Her collections of ascesories are produced in United States.+++
Christian Dada+++
The master of Luxury punk returns with a stunning new collection for this year’s postponed Japan Fashion Week. Christian Dada, designed by Masanori Morikawa, the Autumn/Winter 2011-12 Collection “Gleam,” was inspired by various sources, Punk icon Sid Vicious, ancient military armor, and the Sengoku era of Japanese History.Christian Dada represents the next generation of Japanese brands taking inspiration from the past, the hurt and confusion of the present, and hope for the future.+++
The talks++
The Talks is a weekly updated online interview magazine.
Over the past decade its founders Johannes Bonke and Sven Schumann have met with cultural figures of all kinds, including Mick Jagger, Meryl Streep, Tom Ford, Sofia Coppola and many more.
New talks take place throughout the year as Johannes and Sven travel the world, while the beautifully minimal website ensures the stars, and what they have to say, remain centre stage.
Damir Doma+++
Born in Croatia in 1981 before growing up in south Germany, Damir moved to Antwerp after his graduation at ESMOD in Munich to work with his idols Raf Simons and Dirk Schoeneberger. He launched his label in 2006 and now focuses all of his creativity to conceive a style that reflects his romantic, poetic, sensitive and melancholic moods and state of mind.+++
Johan_Ku +++
Johan Ku was born in Taipei in 1979. He began his career as a graphic designer when he was 17 years old. His design studio was established in 2005 after he had completed a Master's course in fashion and textile. His "Emotional Sculpture" collection, won Gen Art's Design Vision Avant Garde award in New York in December 2009 whilst he was studying for an MA in fashion at Central Saint Martins.
His signature design is sculpture-like silhouettes with unique textiles and extreme chunky knitwear.+++
Angela Brandys +++
Is based in London, United Kingdom. She studied at London College of Fashion and graduated in 2011. Her collections are produced in United Kingdom.+++
Recycled Leather Collection*
Five Hungarian design students from the Moholy-Nagy University of Art and Design collaborated on a collection made by re-using leather belts and shoes Alluding to creatures of ancient Greek mythology and science fiction themes, the recycled leather was given new life by the white paint yet still retains the quality of the worn leather beneath.
Holly Fox-Lee*
Has gradueted in fashion print at London’s Central Saint Martins College in 2009. Her pretty awesome graduate collection centers on the street dance krump, which she discovered during an internship with Jeremy Scott in Los Angeles in 2007. Check out Spot On: Textiles for pictures and more background information about the collection.
Siff Priested
Kolding School of Design, MA Textiles Graduate
Dain*
Born and raised in Brooklyn,NY, the elusive DAIN is considered to be one of the more influential artists to emerge from the current New York City street art movement. DAIN faithfully produces works that are both evocative and beautiful in their composition. His love for old hollywood glam is evident in much of his work. This, along with his roots in graffiti, create a gritty yet delicate street art style that is all his own. DAIN's art has recently been featured in shows in New York, London and Paris.+++
Charlie le Mundi*
Born in Bergerac, France, Charlie Le Mindu quickly rose to the limelight as a child prodigy in the French Hair Academy, cutting and styling hair from the age of thirteen. - Le Mindu has ascended from boarding school disciple, to a hairdresser/stylist in Bordeaux, to fashion icon in Berlin - currently setting his sites on his upcoming relocation to London as a contributor to London fashion and nitelife.Le Mindu stamped his signature on Berlin nitelife by establishing himself as Resident Hairdresser at White Trash and also performing "Live Cuts" in his champagne suite at countless private parties and events in Berlin.+++
Refuge Wear City InterventionS*
Lucy Orta’s entire work concerns this « other » : This other which society has placed on the periphery ; this other which can become itself ; this other in which we are all found, and which is excluded from the Teatrum Mundi, the characteristic daily humdrum of sociality.The work of Lucy Orta is defined with respect to this situation of unparalleled difficulty and exclusion, in the hell of the modern spiral.
The 21st Century Maroon Colony*
Is an art & design collective and think tank based in New York and San Francisco. It’s their aim to “honor the influence of the African Diaspora by recreating African textiles and design aesthetic”+++
Sister Corita Kent – To Create is to Relate
The Contemporary Art Gallery, Vancouver Canada*
The Contemporary Art Gallery, Vancouver Canada*
Sister Corita Kent was one of the most innovative pop artists in the 1960s and became internationally recognized for her brightly coloured silkscreen prints. To create is to relate is the first major solo exhibition in Canada of her work. Admired by Charles and Ray Eames, Buckminster Fuller and John Cage, Kent’s work was an outlet for her spiritual and political beliefs, reflecting her desire for social justice and peace during the period of the Vietnam War. As a Sister of the Immaculate Heart of Mary in Los Angeles, she ran the Art Department there until 1968.+++
Nice Cave: sound suits*
It seems obligatory to say that these ones are not created by the musician Nick Cave but by a sculptor and performance artist with the same name from Chicago.
nick Knight: body language*
The current issue of AnOther Man features this awesome editorial called “Body Language”, a collaboration between photographer Nick Knight, stylist Alister Mackie as well as Lucy McRae and Bart Hess, two artists from AmsterdamThe duo has designed a couple of their typical sculptural body extensions for the shoot. You can find the complete series od photographs in YVY mag +++
Scott Ramsay Kyle*
Is an artist and fashion designer from London. This collection of beautiful headdresses seem to reflect his attemt as an artist to “combine an art & craft element in a fashion context”, as he describes it on his website.
